Puerto Rico Day Dios!

Friday morning, we rose for our next adventure, noting that we were now one hour ahead of US time. Such a strange little time warp!  

The day was hot; hotter than we expected it to be in the dead of winter, but there always seemed to be some kind of breeze, and there was always cool shade to walk in.   We were off that morning to the next restaurant on our list; Waffle-Era Tea Room.  The waffle joint was like no other waffle joint I have ever been to. This was no IHOP!

Boasting many different types of teas and coffees, both hot and cold, we ordered some refreshing drinks while we poured over the fascination menu; savory waffles with ingredients like rosemary, egg, manchego cheese, pesto, tomato, ham and more, and sweet waffles with choices like guava paste, whipped cream, honey, chocolate sauce, and tamarind jelly!

We were served by a petite woman dressed all in black with fifties-style glasses which turned-up slightly at the corners and painted on eyebrows (later that night I spotted her on the street drinking and smoking with friends). She was great. 

The area we sat in opened up to the sky above us (not sure how they handle rain), and the restaurant was bright and white with tall archways between rooms, a rod iron door which allowed light to flow in and interesting art on the walls (including random posters of parrots in the bathroom accompanied by a sign which read in spanish “It’s dangerous to drink when you’re pregnant!”  Got it).

Of course we had to document before we enjoyed!

Libby shoots

Libby and I both went for the "wafflito" (a mini waffle) called The Big Breakfast, with a poached egg, manchego cheese, ham, rosemary oil and maple syrup. It was to die for!  Nirvi was very happy with her wafflito of guava paste and manchego cheese.

With our bellies full of goodness and fresh cold tea, we ventured we ventured out into the heat to explore the city. First, we headed out to the outer wall of the city and followed it around for a bit, admiring the views and the ancient beauty of it all.

The Roots Fountain. The Raíces (Roots) Fountain was commissioned to commemorate the 500th Anniversary of the discovery of America and also to celebrate Puerto Rican culture. This allegorical fountain has a large grouping of sculptures on a raised pedestal in the center of the basin of a fountain. The basin represents the sea and the pedestal the island of Puerto Rico. Each sculpture represents an aspect of Puerto Rican history, culture, or character.

the City Gate. This is the only remaining city gate. It was one of six original massive wooden doors that, centuries ago, were closed at sundown to protect the residents. This pretty red-painted Puerta de San Juan or San Juan Gate is where you re-enter the city. Above the gate is inscribed “Benedictus qui venit in nomine domini”- Latin for “blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord”. As you walk through, notice how the wall is about 15 feet thick. Go straight through the gate and up the hill. You are following the same path many sailors took after a long voyage – straight up the street, to the cathedral, to thank God for a safe journey.

We did a lot of meandering on this trip and it worked fine for all of us. We ended up at the Fort San Felipe del Morro fortress near the water, which was also next to a park very popular for kite flying.

We explored the Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, nearby wondering if the cemetery operated like those in NOLA; stacking of bodies in the tombs.

Santa María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery is a colonial-era cemetery. Apparently they built the cemetery to overlook the Atlantic Ocean to symbolize the spirit's journey to cross over to the afterlife.

From there it was time for a break, so we ended up at a nice place for smoothies (and a super chocolaty chocolate frappe for me) and where I was introduced to quesitos; delicious pastries which were light and flaky and filled with a slightly sweet cheese (and sometimes mango or guava - ack!)

After a nap in the apartment, we sat down to make plans for the next day. We decided that rather than drive to Fajardo and wait in line to hop the ferry, which would be a 90 minute ride and had very questionable reviews, we would fly on a small plane from Ceiba airport to Vieques. It would allow us a bit more time to get to Ceiba in the morning, and allow more time at the other end too. We were satisfied.

Our transportation for the next day settled, we took a long walk to the beach across the street from the capitol building - a beautiful building made of marble. On the opposite side of the building from where we were, there stood statues of all the American presidents who had ever visited the city. One of our cab drivers would later tell us when we passed by "The little girls, they sit on the lap of the man in the chair (Roosevelt), and the women? They hold Obama's hand!" It was the one spot I wish we’d seen close up but missed.

heading to the beach (though we might not have known that at the time)

One thing we learned about was the abundance of sea glass in PR, so we took advantage and collected a ton!  There was lots of coral too, which looked like an eerie combination of turds and bones. Of course I collected some of those too. As the sun sank lower and we headed back, a heavy, mist-like shower started and a huge double rainbow streaked across the sky.

We had a long trek back and enjoyed the look of the city in the fading light.

the bricks paving the streets were blue from age and moisture

Friday night we ate at Mesa Verde where we had one if the best meals ever! With the hanging mason jar lighting, white iron gate details and general garden feel, the space looked like it could be inhabited by fairies (but fortunately we're not run by them). The restaurant boasted a vegetarian menu - but did serve fish.

I drank ginger and pomegranate martini (in a mason glass of course!) which was so interesting with it’s peppery bite.

The beautiful meal started with bruscetta with olive tapinade, mango chutney, manchego cheese. To die for!

I was beyond content with my main meal of couscous with raisins and some other perfect spice, little spheres of goat cheese, tomatoes, asparagus and seared tuna.

Cheers!

I have no idea what Libby and Nirvi had because I only had eyes for my own plate.

I’m loyal like that.